Top of the must-do list for any traveler in Peru: Machu Picchu – Wonder of the Modern World. Of course also on mine. At the beginning of my research I asked myself what possibilities there are to visit the famous Inca terraces.
Before I report on my Salkantay Trek experiences, I would like to briefly summarize which paths came into question for me and why I ultimately decided on the Salkantay Trek.
Which way to Machu Picchu?
Day trip to Machu Picchu:
The bus will pick you up at your hotel in Cusco early in the morning and take you to the train station in Ollantaytambo. From there you can take the train to Aguas Calientes and then continue by bus to the entrance of Machu Picchu. Here follows a guided tour through the famous Inca ruins, after which it's back to Aguas Calientes by bus, by train to Ollantaytambo and by bus back to the hotel. Most day treks look something like this.
For people who don't have much time but still don't want to miss Machu Picchu, it's definitely a good alternative. For me, however, this tour was out of the question. On the one hand I had more time and on the other hand I wanted to experience something more “all around”.
Inca Trail Hiking to Machu Picchu:
The Inca Trail, one of the most famous hiking routes in the world, was more in line with my expectations. The trek usually lasts 4 days and 3 nights. You hike along breathtaking nature, pass a pass at 4200m, experience the jungle and camp in the midst of this diverse landscape. The Inca Trail made it onto my shortlist, but it wasn't in the end.
Jungle Trail to Machu Picchu:
This trek is the more adventurous alternative to get to Machu Picchu. The focus is less on hiking/trekking itself and more on a combination of trekking, rafting, zip lining and mountain biking. Especially with the younger travelers in Peru, this trail is one of the most popular.
The little hiking, which makes the trek attractive to some, ultimately made me decide against it. It could have been a little more walking for me.
Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu:
The Salkantay Trek should represent the perfect combination of the cultural and natural beauties of the landscape around Machu Picchu. The highlight of the tour and the difference to the other options is passing through the snowy Salkantay with an altitude of 6264m. It is considered the most representative mountain of the Vilcabamba Mountains. From there it goes through the cloud forest and jungle to Aguas Calientes.
The trek is considered more demanding, more robust and, above all, less crowded and more remote than the Inca Trail. Especially the latter makes it more authentic for me and finally, together with some reports of my experiences, made me decide to choose the 5-day long Sal Kantey Trek to Machu Picchu.
My Salkantay Trek Experience
Course of our exhausting but unforgettable adventure
Day 1: Cusco - Mollepata (Marcoccasa) - Soraypampa
At 5:30 am my two friends and I were picked up at the hotel. We then met the rest of our group in the minibus. Two Canadians and one American would be our companions for the next five days. Together with the two French people who accompanied me and me as a German, we were now a mixed team.
After about three hours bus ride and a break for breakfast we arrived in Marcoccasa (3400m). There we met our horseman, who would transport our tents and backpacks with his horses, and the cooks, who would take care of our physical well-being during the trip. When everything was stowed away a little later, we started our hike. It started comfortably over green meadows and with a continuous gigantic view of the surrounding mountains, such as the 5217 meter high Humantay.
It was about three hours of hiking until our lunch break. We reached an inviting little rest area. After having lunch there, we relaxed in the sun for about an hour before trekking to our camp for the night, Soraypampa (3700m). When we got there after a few more hours of hiking, our tents were already set up for the night and it didn't take long for us to prepare our sleeping places.
While the t-shirt temperatures were still mild at midday, it was now getting colder and colder. A sociable tea session followed, followed by dinner and a little later we slowly crawled into our tents.
That may all sound very comfortable, but what followed was the coldest (camping) night of my life. Temperatures dropped to -10°C. Rolled up in my sleeping bag, the exertions and excitement of the first day made me fall asleep after a short time, despite the freezing temperatures.
Day 2: Soraypampa - Salkantay Pass - Challway
For four hours it went up to the highest point of the route at a snowy 4,600m. The point is located between the two gigantic mountains Salkantay and Tucarhuay. The view from the pass is breathtaking. The ascent too. Due to the height and the steep, stony and partly icy paths, the route stretches and definitely requires a certain level of fitness and experience. But the effort is worth it.
Once at the top, our guide performed a traditional Incarnation ritual with us to express our respect for Pachamama, Mother Earth personified by the Andean peoples. In the meantime it was a bit irritating, but at the same time extremely interesting and a unique experience.
After a short breather, we began the descent towards the rest area for the long-awaited lunch break. The vegetation started again and the temperature and humidity increased.
After our invigorating, well-deserved lunch and a little nap, we set out for our sleeping place for the coming night. Unfortunately, our guide's optimistic statement that we would reach the camp in two hours was not confirmed. After another four and a half hours of hiking, we finally arrived at our camp in Challway (3000m) with aching feet and legs. At the latest after this afternoon, our earlier assumption was confirmed: Don't trust the times given by a Peruvian tour guide.
After being on the road for more than twelve hours that day, we fell exhausted into our tents after a soothing shower, a cup of tea and a delicious dinner, fell asleep immediately and stayed through until the next morning.
Day 3: Challway - Wiñaypoco - La Playa
The third day was entirely dedicated to the flora of the region and various plantations. After the same morning rituals as on the first day, we headed towards the jungle. We marched steeply downhill through the rainforest until we finally reached the jungle.
The air became more humid again, the temperatures even warmer. This had the effect that the mosquitoes were not long in coming. I can definitely recommend investing in good insect repellent. Unfortunately, I couldn't inspire the beasts with my €1.50 Rossmann own-brand repellent, which I brought from Germany.
Parallel to my fight with the mosquitoes, I was still able to marvel at the variety of orchid species, bromeliads and many other plants, as well as coffee, cocoa and fruit plantations. However, when we arrived at the lunch break site in Wiñaypoco (2659m), I was already covered in bites. The way there felt like an eternity for all of us due to the little beasts and the already somewhat affected feet.
After lunch, our guide suggested an alternative plan for the afternoon. Instead of walking another three hours, we could take a bus to camp for the night, pack our swimwear and head to the nearby hot springs for a hot bath and end the day. Without hesitation, everyone agreed and so we spent the afternoon relaxing in the hot water of the thermal baths.
In the evening after dinner there was a campfire in the camp. In a circle, with a cold beer and music, we sat around the fire until we disappeared into our tents for the last time for this trek. Contrary to the first night, however, it was still over 20°C late, which made it difficult to fall asleep. My body was apparently confused and not used to such stasis up to that point.
Day 4: La Playa - Zip Lining - Waterworks - Aguas Calientes
From the cable car station a bus took us to the hydroelectric power station (Hydroeléctrica (1950m). There we had our lunch and from there we hiked three hours along the railway tracks to Aguas Calientes (2050m) where we would spend the night in the hotel. This part of the The route already felt like the home stretch.We met a few other hikers, one or the other four-legged friend and anticipation of the upcoming visit to the Wonder of the World the next day was spreading.
Day 5: Aguas Calientes - Machu Picchu - Cusco
Then we took the bus back to Aguas Calientes and from there we took the train to Ollantaytambo, where our bus back to Cusco was already waiting for us.
Conclusion of my Salktantay Trek experience:
Although some plan changes were made, this trek was definitely the right choice for us. It was the perfect combination of activities, nature and culture. Our guide did a great job, brought us closer to the Inca culture, taught us a lot about the fauna and flora of the different types of landscape and ultimately made the tour an unforgettable experience for us.
Our agency for the Salkantay Trek:
Salkantay Trek Machu: Tour Operator
Av Tupac Amaru PP-10B Cusco – Peru
Email: info@salkantaytrekmachu.com
Telephone: (+51) 984004472
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