SALKANTAY | Alternate Trek to Machu Picchu

The Salkantay trek is THE good alternative to the Inca Trail to get to the famous site of Machu Picchu. Located east of the city of Cuzco, this route crosses over sixty kilometers the Vilcabamba mountain range, renowned for its glaciers and high peaks. The Salkantay, which gave its name to the course, rises to 6271 m. and is considered one of the most spectacular mountains in Peru. In 5/4 days, this trek offers a diversity of exceptional landscapes between high mountains – Salkantay pass 4625 m. alt. – and tropical jungle. A pleasure for lovers of wide-open spaces and archeology, because at the end of the road, the citadel awaits you

How to get there ?

You have several options for getting to Mollepata from Cusco. The first solution – and the most economical – is the bus. They leave at 4 am from the Arcopata bus station in the direction of Mollepata. The trip takes about 3 hours and will cost you 30 Soles. Let's be clear, it's a bit rough, but immersive solution... We chose to take a taxi through our hotel. We paid 130 Soles (+/-35 euros). The price is obviously much higher than that of the bus, but we opted for a little comfort before these 4 tough days. Do not hesitate to ask your hotel to recommend a driver!

A difficult Salkantay Trek?

The Salkantay trek does not present any major difficulties. The trail is very well marked and it is rare to find yourself completely alone in the event of a problem. However, it must be remembered that the route passes through a pass at more than 4000 meters. If we are far from mountaineering, we must not neglect the effect of altitude on your body. There is no secret: a good physical preparation is necessary, but even more… we can never remind you enough, respect the acclimatization levels. Also remember to wear good shoes! Pebbles, sand or mud, in just four days, you will experience a wide variety of trails.

What about Aguas Calientes?

Unsurprisingly, it is an EXTREMELY touristy city. We only spent a few hours there, but nevertheless discovered a nugget that made it possible to soften the painful transition from the loneliness of the roads and the hustle and bustle of the city. This nugget was our hotel, the Rupa Wasi Lodge. What happiness! Our accommodation was a two-story cabin with a sleeping area that overlooks the rooftops of Agua Calientes. Last parenthesis of tranquility before returning to the hubbub of Cusco. To end this quick overview of Agua Caliente: The Tree House! This is the restaurant attached to the hotel – yes, we didn’t want to go far… –. In addition to a magnificent setting, the varied menu offers Peruvian specialties, including a very large vegetarian selection.

Return to Cusco...

Once again several options are available, but you will not be able to cut… BY TRAIN! It is well known, Machu Picchu is only accessible on foot or by train. Peru Rail and Inca Rail are the best known companies for these trips. We opted for Inca Rail, because it offers a “bimodal” ticket (train + bus) which is cheaper than a traditional 100% train ticket. It still costs $85 per person. With this price, we take advantage of the panoramic train that crosses the valleys and after a few hours, we board a mini-van towards Cusco. It is a good compromise between the price and the pleasure of traveling through these mountains by train.

Salkantay Trek Packing List

Trekking equipment

• Osprey aura ag 50L bag
• Black Diamond walking stick
• Meindl MINNESOTA lady gtx shoe

Clothes:

• 2 pairs of Crew light cushion socks
• 4 panties
• 2 sports bras
• 2 t-shirts
• 1 technical underlay in merino wool
• 1 Mammut Aconcagua fleece
• 1 Pataginia nano-air Light hybrid down jacket
• 1 Mammut Convey Tour hardsell jacket
• 1 Fjallraven classic knit hat
• 1 Patagonia Simul Alpine pants
• 1 technical shorts from Oysho
• 1 Oysho leggings
• 1 cap
• 1 pair of woolen gloves

— STORY/ 4 DAYS SALKANTAY TREK TO MACHU PICCHU —

The decision to hike the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu as the first trek of the trip was a no-brainer. If the routes to these ancestral ruins are not lacking like the Choquequirao trek or the famous Inca Trail, we have chosen the promise of discovering incredible snow-capped peaks one day and a real tropical forest the next. In addition, it does not present any particular difficulties, especially in terms of acclimatization, as it is between 2800 and 4630 meters above sea level. Finally, this trek leads to Machu Picchu which we absolutely wanted to discover. A great goal for our first steps in Peru… So, after spending 3 days in Cusco, we were eager to finally explore the Andes mountain range.

A few hours of taxi with Dani our driver and here we are in Mollepata, the real starting point of the trek. This typical Peruvian village is home to a few rare hotels and cafes for tourists who decide to do the entire route. One last night in very warm sheets and we are ready to begin this first trek.

SALKANTAY TREK: Day 1

• Distance: 21.4km
• Duration: 8h00 walk
• Maximum altitude: 4155 m.

Topo: Departing from Mollepata, in the central square of the village. Go up the main street and take the only road that heads up the mountain. After a few kilometres, turn left and leave the main route to go deeper inland. After a few hundred meters of elevation, at the level of a small shelter, first view of the snow-capped mountains. From there, the path is – almost – flat for several kilometers until you reach the first tourist facilities. Continue the path, being careful not to make a mistake when leaving for the  Humantay lake Ccocha. After passing the main camp of Soray Pampa, take the only path towards Salkantay, due north. Climb another few hundred meters to reach a large flat. There you will find a hut where locals are staying. A little further on are tent pitches.

Departure from our hotel Casona Masona Mollepata at 5:30 am. We can't wait to walk this path that made us dream for months. This time, we are there ! The village of Mollepata located at 2803 meters above sea level is the historic start of the Salkantay trek. However, most travel agencies recommend starting the route at Soray Pampa which is 1000 meters higher at 3900 meters above sea level. This camp is served by a new motorable road from which an influx of coaches of tourists thirsty for assisted adventure. We absolutely do not regret having persisted from Mollepata and we encourage you to do so. The path crosses the Peruvian countryside, passes through villages and gradually reveals the white-headed mountains. What happiness!

Around 1 p.m., lunch break. First trek, first lunch and first hassle! The rubber gasket on our stove fell apart when we plugged the gas canister in—probably due to the change in temperature during the plane ride. Big mistake ! We did not check the equipment when we arrived in Cusco thinking that our countless tests at home would be enough. The question of retracing our steps is not an option. We have cereal bars and will find something to eat on the road. The rest of the day goes by without a hitch. At the beginning of the afternoon, we cross the ecolodges of Soray Pampa and begin our ascent facing the Salkantay. The objective is to settle in a camp at 4150 meters. We arrive there painfully around 5 p.m. Indeed, the first effects of the altitude are felt - despite our 3 days in Cusco at nearly 3400 meters. A little headache, but especially the heart which, combined with the physical effort of the day, drums in the chest. These little hassles seem futile when we finally reach the camp. In front of us stands the Nevado Salkantay which culminates at more than 6271 meters.

SALKANTAY TREK: Day 2

• Distance: 17.6km
• Duration: 8h15 walk
• Maximum altitude: 4625 m.

Topo: Departure from Salkantaypampa camp. Very quickly, the path separates and then rejoins a few kilometers further. The first rises steadily in the bottom of the valley. The other known as “Siete culebras” is steeper, but offers wonderful views of the surrounding landscape. Count another 1h15 walk to reach the Abra Salkantay pass, the highest point of the trek. There follows a long descent of almost 2000 meters to the camp of Wairaqmachai then to the village of Collpapampa.

→ At the Abra Salkantay pass, take the time to see – if you have the energy – the Humantay lake. It is a 10 minute walk from the pass and well worth the trip.

A first night in the mountains of Peru at more than 4000 meters above sea level. The camp in which we settled is one of the few areas where it is recommended to bivouac. Most are located next to houses and you have to pay a small contribution to the premises that maintain the premises equivalent to +/- 10 soles depending on the location. These areas are indicated on most maps and we strongly advise you to respect them.

At this altitude, the nights are cool, even very cool. Investing in new Valendré sleeping bags seemed necessary to us. Every night at more than 4000 meters proved it to us. Departure at 7 a.m. We start this day with a particularly steep zigzag path: Los Siete Culebras or “The 7 snakes”. A few more hours of walking and we reach the Salkantay pass at 4630 meters in the late morning. The place is breathtaking! Around us, there are many apachetas – small mounds of stones designed to thank the mountain deities, the apu – against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks. From time to time, small avalanches are triggered on the surrounding peaks. It is here that we see our first condors during a break to admire this incredible landscape.

It would be hypocritical not to address the subject of mass tourism here. Following the latest regulations governing the Inca Trail, the Salkantay trek has become a privileged route to Machu Picchu. On average, 300 people walk through it every day. It is obviously necessary to add to this figure, the caravans of mules which transport the bags of the travelers. All this bustle can sometimes taint the fullness of the course. But if we have learned one thing, it is that you have to know how to share the mountain in one way or another. Autonomy allowed us to circumvent these little hassles. Indeed, it is easy to anticipate the arrival times of the groups and therefore to leave a little earlier. In general, we are quickly overtaken by the carriers and their animals carrying the bags. Note that the locals have more sympathy for self-guided travellers. They always helped us with any problems.

After this well-deserved break, we begin a long descent of 1900 meters. A small stop in the camp of Wayraqmachai to swallow a soup with lentils and potato then we resume the road. Mountains with eternal snow and arid plains gradually give way to lush forest. It is already 5 p.m. when we arrive in the village of Collpapampa. The camp is located in a green setting in the heart of the valley, very different from the environment of our last bivouac.

SALKANTAY TREK: Day 3

• Distance: 23.8km
• Duration: 10h15 walk
• Maximum altitude: 2843 m.

Topo: From Collpampa, follow the valley that descends, being careful to take the path on the left side. Continue through the jungle to the village of Sahuayaco. It is easy to eat there. Follow the road for a few kilometers. At the next village, turn right on an old stepped Inca trail. 800 vertical meters await you to reach Passo Llactapata. Take the time to go through Mesa Pata Observatorio, easily identifiable thanks to signs. Then take the descent to Llactapata Lodge, camp with a view of the next day's destination: Machu Picchu.

A trouble-free and above all restful night! During the evening, a four-legged friend invited himself under the outer canvas of the tent. With the cold of the night, we didn't have the heart to push it away. The only precaution: hide your shoes well!

We continue our descent into the gorges. The path goes deep into a forest that seems suspended on the steep slopes of the mountain. As you walk, the biodiversity diversifies. The Gynoxys, shrubs with small yellow flowers, typical of arid lands, give way to a real jungle where bamboo, bromeliad and Wiñay Wayna Orchid coexist. Protected by all this vegetation, the air is humid and warm. The path sometimes crosses small streams that flow into the main river, Río Santa Teresa. The route is calm. We take a break at Llosska Mayu, a camp on a small open plain where it is possible to buy some snacks. Here we discover a small yellow candy, a thick shell that hides delicious bags of sweet juice. These passion fruits are very cheap, only 1 sol for two. They have become our little pleasure of this adventure.

Several more kilometers through the jungle and we reach a flat area. There, a horde of taxis offers to take us to the next village. We choose to continue on foot to the village of Sahuayaco. We reach it around 12 p.m. and have lunch in a hotel that welcomes organized trips. Vans full of tourists from the end of the jungle trail begin to arrive. We leave. We meet on the terrace, three Germans also roaming, who had passed us a little earlier in the morning. Unlike them, this is not the end of our day. Always on foot we follow a criss-crossing road that takes us after a few kilometers to the mouth of a path leading straight into the mountains. This is an ancient Inca trail. The 800 meters that followed put our nerves to the test. Under a blazing sun, we reach the archaeological site of Llactapata and its watchtower. We are at the end of the day and the light is slowly starting to drop. The campsite where we will spend the night is below a few minutes walk. However, this breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains and Machu Picchu invite us to take a moment.

SALKANTAY TREK: Day 4

• Distance: 14.7km
• Duration: 7h15 walk
• Maximum altitude: 2382 m.

Topo: From Llactapata, continue the descent to the bottom of the valley. Cross the bridge then follow the path that goes to the left and after a few kilometres, at the crossroads, turn right. In order not to be mistaken, look up: you will be able to see a glimpse of the ruins of Machu Picchu. Arrived at the station, follow the rails for about ten kilometers to the first Machu Picchu checkpoint. Then, cross the bridge and begin your ascent by taking an Inca path/stairway over 300 meters of elevation gain. Arrived at the top, last check before being able to enjoy one of the wonders of the world. After the visit, it is possible to walk down to Aguas Calientes on the same path or take a bus that arrives directly in town.

This morning, we are ahead of the sun. It is barely 6 a.m. when we start the road towards the objective of the journey: Machu Picchu. A few hours of walking still separate us from the sacred mountain and today more than any other day, we cannot afford to be late. Indeed, in order to regulate the influx of tourists to the archaeological site, time slots must be reserved. Ours starts at 11 a.m. The path goes deep into the jungle to reach the valley. These laces end up crushing our knees, which have already been badly damaged over the past two days. Since the day before in Sahuayca, hikers have become rare, because the agencies favor taxis and then trains to take their customers to Agus Alientes. However, we are not alone: a four-legged friend accompanies us from the Llatapata camp. From the bottom of the valley, we reach a small station from where the famous Peru Rail leaves. We then follow for a little over 9km, the rails of the train to the entrance of Machu Picchu. Many hikers experience the monotony of this path. However, following these rails was a joyful exercise and we have excellent memories of it. Winding through the valley around these verdant mountains was like an appetizer of what we were about to discover. These 9 km, although long on flat ground, are an integral part of this course.

It is 10 am when we arrive at the entrance of Machu Picchu and decide to have a snack before starting the +350 meters that will take us to the entrance of the ruins. While gobbling down two cheese/olive quesadillas, we see dozens of busloads of tourists pass by on a road to Machu Picchu. For a nice small sum of money, the facility reaches out to us. In line with this beginning of the journey, we decide to access the site by taking the old Inca trail, hundreds of irregular steps towards the summit. Another great exercise! We take 1h30 to reach the entrance, dripping with perspiration – but happy –. Once our bags have been dropped off at the lockers, we make our way through the multilingual guides and their customers. We can't wait to finally discover this place that has fueled our fantasies for the past three days, and more... throughout our childhood.

For an hour, we simply sat in front of these ruins full of stories and contemplated them in all their detail. From this encounter with Machu Picchu, we remain marked by several things, positive and negative. First, the green immensity that serves as a background to the ruins, sharp mountains that stretch beyond the horizon. They envelop Machu Picchu and pervert our perception of scale. It is undeniable: this site is grandiose! However, each person seems to want – to be able – to appreciate this treasure in a different way. Not to mention the incivility and the lack of respect for the rules of preservation of the archaeological site, 95% of visitors perceive Machu Picchu only through their screens. It seems a bit sad to us so we won't dwell on this point, but this site has become, despite itself, a huge selfie machine. So much so that people who are there to admire it, to visit it strictly speaking, are rare. In sum, these ruins nestled in the heart of the Andean mountains will remain an indelible spectacle in our memory. We strongly encourage you to visit them, as it is an incredible and unique experience. Only know how to appreciate them at the cost of your sweat.

Salkantay Trek Machu - Head Office

Address:

Av Tupac Amaru PP-10B

Cusco - Santiago

Peru

Salkantay Trek Machu - Travel Information

Contact Names: Edwin Caviedes and Keny Sanchez

Email: info@salkantaytrekmachu.com

Land Line: +51 84 226547

Mobile Phone/Whatsapp: +51 984004472

webSite: https://www.salkantaytrekmachu.com/en/